Beiträge

Aufbuschen auf der Unteren Firstalm – und vom Leben einer Sennerin

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Bei meiner Ankunft auf der Unteren Firstalm werde ich von Anna-Lena, der jungen Sennerin, begrüßt. Sie ist von Beruf her eigentlich Schreinerin, kommt ursprünglich aus einer Landwirtschaft vom Irschenberg und hat diesen Sommer mit 56 Jungviechern, 2 Stuten und einem Fohlen, 24 Schafen, 2 Schweinen, 3 Hühnern und einem Gockel auf der Alm verbracht. Es war schon immer ihr Traum Almerin zu sein, erzählt sie mir, den sie sich durch eine Freistellung von der Arbeit heuer verwirklichen konnte. Besonders gereizt hat sie der enge Kontakt mit den Tieren, mal raus aus dem Alltag zu kommen und in der Natur zu sein.

So ein Sennerinnen-Leben ist gar nicht so leicht, erfahre ich. Ihr Arbeitstag ist angefüllt mit:

Im Stall die kleinen Kälber füttern und waschen.

Die Säue versorgen.

Nach den Kälbern auf der Weide schauen, ob alle gesund und ruhig sind.

Im schweren Rucksack Mineralfutter und Salz sowie Flickzeug für die Zäune mit sich führen.

Zäune kontrollieren und ausbessern.

Tränken säubern und vieles mehr.

Seit Mitte August bindet Anna-Lena außerdem Papierröschen zum Schmücken der Buschen für den Almabtrieb.

Außerdem hat sie in den letzten 14 Tagen Almrausch gepflückt und gebunden.

Auch die Buschen zum Schmücken der Tiere hat sie gebunden und mit bunten Reserln (dt. Röschen) geschmückt.

Zu ihren schönsten Erlebnissen gehören die Geburten der 7 Lamperl (dt. Lämmer). Aber Anna-Lena wurde auch vom Schafbock umgeworfen, ein Jungvieh hatte sich vertreten, ein Kalb hatte eine Kolik und der Gockel wurde böse von einem frei laufenden Hund gebissen. „Die Hunde sind tatsächlich ein Problem“, erzählt mir die Sennerin, bzw. eher die Hundehalter, welche die Tiere nicht anleinen und es dadurch immer wieder zu einer Jagd auf Schafe und Hühner kommt.

Die Kälber kennen einen mit der Zeit, erfahre ich. „Angst muss man nicht vor den Tieren haben, aber Respekt sollte man schon haben“, sagt die Almerin.

Sie musste sich erst daran gewöhnen sich allein zum Essen zu setzen, erzählt sie mir. Aber wenn dann am Abend die Ruhe auf der Alm einkehrt, die Wanderer wieder im Tal sind und man besonders im August noch lange draußen sitzen bleiben kann, ist es ein Traum.

Für den Almabtrieb werden die Kühe mit Buschen, Kreuzen, einer Krone, Stirnkranzl sowie sogenannten Fotzenkranzl, welche um Maul und Hörner drapiert werden, geschmückt. 40 Blumen werden etwa pro Buschen benötigt. Außerdem kommen hier die wunderschönen Glocken zum Einsatz, welche zum Teil seit Generationen in der Familie weitergegeben werden. Hartl Markhauser, welcher die Alm bewirtschaftet, zeigt mir die Glocken, welche er und sein Vater zu ihrer Hochzeit und besonderen Geburtstagen geschenkt bekommen haben. Er sitzt neben mir auf der Bank und poliert sie, damit sie am kommenden Samstag wunderschön glänzen. Im normalen Almbetrieb tragen die Kühe übrigens kleine Glocken, welche den Sinn haben, sie wiederzufinden, falls sie sich verirrt haben. Die großen Glocken sind dem Almabtrieb vorbehalten. „Die Kühe stehen übrigens auf ihre „Alltags“-Glocken und verteidigen sie sogar“, verrät mir Hartl.

 

 

Morgen (30. September 2017) findet der Almabtrieb von der Unteren Firstalm über die alte Spitzingseestraße bis nach Fischhausen zum Anderl-Bauernhof der Familie Markhauser statt. 7-8 Erwachsene und 5-6 Kinder sind daran beteiligt. Besonders die Kinder sind schon ganz aufgeregt und freuen sich darauf. Je nach Dauer des Schmückens geht es kurz vor 11 Uhr los mit dem Abtrieb ins Tal und damit dem Einläuten der Herbstsaison.

 

 

Ulrike Mc Carthy

Geborene Münchnerin und seit vielen Jahren begeisterte „Wahl-Schlierseerin“ Personaldiagnostikerin, Trainerin, Seminarleiterin, Hypno- und Gesprächstherapeutin, Hofbetreuerin im altbayerischen Dorf und vor allem Hobby-Fotografin.

 

 

 

“Aufbuschen” Keeping Traditions Alive

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For three years now I have had the joy of spontaneously capturing photos of a particular Schliersee family as they passed by my house in Neuhaus during their Almabtrieb. On one occasion I managed to hand the daughter Magda a business card and thus began our dialog.

This year I was determined to learn more about the back story of Almabtrieb. Who does what and what does it all mean? I received a wonderful invitation from the Bucher family of Unterrißhof in Schliersee, to join them several days before their cattle drive to prepare the decorations.

“Aufbuschen” is a regional world for the process of crafting the various colorful decorations for the cows for Almabtrieb. Many headdresses for the cows are made using an armature that is handed down through the family over the years and is formed in the initials of the farmer. An important armature to which the bouquets of wild alpine rhododendron “Almrausch” are affixed is the crown shape which sit atop the head of the lead cow. The symbolism and traditions of Almabtrieb are centuries old. Though the cows will ultimately each autumn be driven down from the high pastures back to the farm, it is not fact if they will or will not be decorated. The cows are only decorated if it has been a safe and successful summer. This means simply no tragic loss of life. It is only then that a farmer will decorate their cattle.

The farm of Bauernhof Unterrißhof, enjoys one of the most spectacular views in Schliersee. That is truly something to say since there isn’t honestly a bad view of Schliersee. It is located just off the beaten path the drive in alone is pretty magical and affords you endless beautiful views around each tree lined bend.

One sunny September afternoon, I arrived heart leaping for joy over the experience and the view. In the Baurenhof garage everyone was gathered and everything was perfectly organized. The floor was covered with tray after tray of bright colored hand made paper streamer and flowers. This collection obviously represented many long hours of handwork. Leaning against the garage wall were the leather headdresses with the prickly pine branches just waiting to be shaped and decorated. I asked Markus Bucher, Uncle of Magda, can you still buy the headdresses anymore and he told me they were Austrian and that saddle makers there still make them in the traditional way.

After a quick introduction and explanation we tucked right into the work. It was all so beautifully planned and organized that even this American was able just step in and help. I asked if the style of the decorations were always the same and they said no each year the each family tries to add something new and exciting. That year for the Bucher family, there was a flower with an almost rainbow color scheme in the center that they weren’t too sure about right up to when they flowers were attached to the bush. It was a pleasant surprise how nicely the color scheme worked.

As we were finishing up work, the young son of Markus arrived from his after school dance lesson of the traditional Bavarian Schuhplattler. He excitedly and deftly jumped right in to work. I was amazed at how he at such a young age, happily began bringing in the various wagonloads of giant cowbells to be cleaned and polished. He was obviously an expert. I have to admit I have been photographing this young man for the past few years and I was astounded back then at his confidence and ability to drive a 2000 pound cow through busy streets and I was no less impressed with him now.

Working side by side, preparing for this families yearly event to give thanks for a successful year was truly wonderful. I kept hearing in my head “Many hands make light work” and it was true. No only did the time fly by but I learned so much from each generation about their passion for keeping these important traditions alive.

 

 

You too can enjoy the view and stay with the Bucher family at Unterrisshof. To find out more about their availabilities:

http://www.unterriss-hof.de
http://www.unterriss-hof.de/almhuette-am-spitzingsee/index.html

 

 

Laura Boston-Thek

American artist, photographer and professional wanderer who, after 20 years of roaming, put down roots in a 100 year old Bavarian farmhouse and fell in love with the Alpine village and its residents (both 2-legged and 4-legged).

 

 

 

Autumn Traditions and Time Travel – part 2

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I met Hartl once more at his breathtaking lake side farm early in the morning while the dew was still glistening on the grass and the fog was beginning to lift revealing the mountains once more. After our long jeep ride up the mountain passing several groups of hikers heading up Bodenschneid in this perfect wandering weather.

We arrived at the Alm early that Sunday morning and Anna and the other Hirteren (herders), Sennerin and farmers were calmly preparing the cows for their festive procession down the mountain, through the town and back to the farm. It is rather amazing how calm the cows remain even once they have received their large ceremonial bells and the head pieces. The calmness is attributed to the care and calmness of the Sennerin and her many helpers. If the humans remain calm, the animals follow suit…for the most part. They are animals after all and can be very unpredictable. Like humans each animal has it’s own distinct character.

Looking timelessly beautiful in her Trachten (traditional clothing), hair braided in the traditional way and decorated with Edelweiss. It was very obvious Anna was leading this show and with pride, as she should be. Very few famers in our region had a successful season this summer due to extreme weather. Once all the selected cows received their decorations, and everything was put just right, Anna began to lead them home. Of course the cows had ideas of their own and ran in different directions but through the skill of Anna and her many helpers the cows were once again quickly organized and down the mountain, through the forest they went.

Their journey took the group along ancient wandering forest paths of which I can only imagine hundreds of years of farmers traveled before. For over two hours they negotiated these mountain paths cheered on by the many hikers and cyclists they passed until they reached the edge of Schliersee and we on the homestretch to the picturesque farm in Hausham.

Once everyone had entered the farm and the cows were brought once again into their lush green pastures the business of deftly removing the decorations began. They are removed quickly and with care even if the cows seem to have difficulty giving up the pretty decorations. Part of the history of Almabtrieb as being a way to give thanks for a successful season but also it is important to hang the decorated bushes, head pieces, on the outside of the stalls to continue to bring the herd good luck.

The Baurernhof or farmhouse was situated with the mountains in the distance and was truly spectacular. Hartl and I were given the great honor to join the family and all the helpers in a magnificent meal on the sun soaked terrace surrounded by the delicious scent of warm vine tomatoes ripening. For this time traveling wanderer it was a life long dream.

If you would like to visit Rainer-Alm
http://www.bergwandern-für-senioren.de/huetten/index.php?gebiet=2&huette=213

For a wonderful farm house vacation or amazing cabin in ski season:
http://anderlbauer.schliersee.de/unser_hof/unser_hof.php

 

Laura Boston-Thek

American artist, photographer and professional wanderer who, after 20 years of roaming, put down roots in a 100 year old Bavarian farmhouse and fell in love with the Alpine village and its residents (both 2-legged and 4-legged).

 

 

Autumn Traditions and Time Travel – part 1

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We met at dusk on the evening of our first meeting.  Leonhard “Hartl” Markhauser of Fischhausen, a local farmer, and his father Joseph “Sepp” Markhauser kindly collected me and then drove through the dark foggy forest to meet Anna Deutschenbaur the Sennerin, herder and cheese maker for the Rainer-Alm. Anna met us at the door of her cozy wooden cabin on that chilly night and welcomed us inside. The smoky scent of a fire burning in the ancient wood stove coupled with gentle clanging of bells from the cow stirring sleepily in the stall attached to rear of the cabin was entrancing. After a quick tour we settled down to begin learning about each other and how to make the paper decorations that are affixed to the individual head pieces (Buschen), which the lead cow wears when returning to the valley.

The 23-year-old Anna, caregiver by trade, has been able for the past 2 years to take a 4 month break in the summer to perform her role as the Sennerin for Rainer-Alm. Rainer-Alm is located 1240m above Neuhaus and Fischhausen. Her Alm Hütte or mountain cabin has no electricity, no TV and no Internet. She is kept busy with making her many varieties of delicious cheeses and butter with only a radio and her 2 young frisky cats as company. We were blessed to enjoy a platter or Brotzeit of these beautiful cheeses as well as some local smoked pork. I have to admit her dry aged mozzarella with herbs was a favorite as well as her chili spiced Alm cheese.

On our second meeting Hartl and I once again hopped into the jeep and drove up the mountain this time stopping along the way near the top.  From there we rambled up a washboard side of a hilltop pasture to gather Almrausch a very important plant for the Almabtrieb tradition. The Almrausch or Alpine Rose is used in bunches to decorate many head pieces and also to cover the leather straps on the harnesses which hold the head pieces . This plant is a variety of rhododendron and it is approximately a three inch sprig of new growth which is picked and when perfect will have a rich green color. It can also have a  slight reddish blush and resembles a rose bud pattern.
Proudly armed with our bags of Almrausch, the result of 2 hours of picking while gazing way down the mountain on our picturesque Leonhardi Chapel, as it was aglow with the setting sun, we returned once more to Rainer Alm. On this visit we selected the best of the Almrausch and gathered them in bunches for Anna to affix on a rope the circumference of the belly of her lead cow. While our hands were busy we chatted away about the local traditions, the state of affairs with the other farmers and their herds and of course…the shocking price of beer at Oktoberfest.

Upon leaving the ever gracious Anna and the Hartl who I now call my time traveling guide, we finalized our plans for Sunday when we would meet for a final time as Anna leads her herd of 2 milking cows and about 20 young bulls back to the valley and to their home farm in Hausham.

If you would like to visit Rainer-Alm
http://www.bergwandern-für-senioren.de/huetten/index.php?gebiet=2&huette=213

For a wonderful farm house vacation or amazing cabin in ski season:
http://anderlbauer.schliersee.de/unser_hof/unser_hof.php

 

Laura Boston-Thek

American artist, photographer and professional wanderer who, after 20 years of roaming, put down roots in a 100 year old Bavarian farmhouse and fell in love with the Alpine village and its residents (both 2-legged and 4-legged).

 

 

Almabtrieb “When the Cows Come Home”

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Here it is again, that magical time of year filled with cowbells and fancily festooned farm animals. It is the Almabtrieb season once more. It feels like only yesterday the local cows danced out of the barns after a long dark winter to head up into the lush green pastures high upon the mountaintops.

Almabtrieb or Viehscheid simply mean “Cattle Drive”. The more literal translations are Almabtrieb, “Coming down from the alpine pastures” and Viehscheid, “Separation of the cattle”. After spending approximately 100 days in the flower rich sweet grasses of the “Almen” or Alpine meadows.

Steeped in tradition these colorful events are definitely worth seeking out if you are visiting any Alpine regions during Sept and October. For me personally they are an obsession. Though I have been to and thoroughly enjoyed the pageantry of the larger Almabtriebfests in the Allgaü and elsewhere, it is the small village ones I truly adore. Being able to walk down from the peeks fueled by the joyful excitement is truly magical.

Almabtrieb7LThekI find it fascinating the decoration of leading cow, ‘Kranzkuh’; each is personal and very unique. Many times you find the initials of the farmer, a beloved Saint to protect the cows, even sayings in the local dialect.  One of my favorite that I have seen in our area is “Ds Summa ist aussi, i muaß obi ins Tal“ basically it translates to “The Summer is over and back to the valley we return”. The handwork involved in all this decoration is equally as exciting as the event itself. From the giant heirloom bells used to chase away evil spirits, to the crepe paper twisted blossoms it is all so colorfully unique.

 

Many people ask me about the fancy headdresses the cows wear for this event and if the cows mind them. Last year I had the pleasure of being up on Spitzingsee with a group of herders as they put the headdress or “Buschen” on the cows. There was about 5-10 minutes of prancing about because of the heavy strange feeling of the headdress but then they settled right down. They do seem to enjoy their time in the barnyard once the long hike down is finished destroying each others headdresses. It is really quite a sight to see. I asked one of the farmers if the cows minded and I am not sure if he was being cheeky but he said the lead cow seems very upset when she has been usurped and is no longer given the honor of wearing the largest headdress. So, I will bow to his long experience with the cows.

You might come across a herd of undecorated cows, somberly coming through town. This means that there has been illness or loss of life either in the cattle or even in the farmer’s family and I get very choked up when I see them. It definitely lets you know if it has been a good year or not. I have noticed here in the Schliersee area those groups tend to pass through town very early.

My advice to folks visiting these alpine regions during the time of Almabtrieb is to drive carefully and cautiously as you never know when you might be coming around a corner and find yourself facing a large herd of fancily dressed cows and their hard working handlers attempting to safely bring the cows home in the traditional way. Please be respectful and patient. It is a high-pressure job for them. Always plan your travel accordingly and give yourself extra time. It is best to pull over when possible and just watch the beautiful historic procession pass you by.

 

Laura Boston-Thek

American artist, photographer and professional wanderer who, after 20 years of roaming, put down roots in a 100 year old Bavarian farmhouse and fell in love with the Alpine village and its residents (both 2-legged and 4-legged).